In this follow-up episode, Phil Rowley is back with Jerry McBride, one of the key people who helped create the Balanced Flies. He’s here to break down exactly how he fishes these flies on Stillwater lakes.
If you’ve ever tied on a balanced leech and wondered, “Now what?”, this episode is packed with all the gear, presentation tips, and little-known tricks you need to get dialed in.
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Show Notes with Jerry McBride on Fishing Strategies & Tactics for Balanced Flies
In this episode, Phil Rowley is back with part two of his conversation with Jerry McBride, one of the minds behind the original balanced fly design. We already know the full story on how the balanced fly came to life and how to tie it properly.
If you missed that episode, check it out here: Littoral Zone #17 | History and Tying Techniques of Balanced Flies with Jerry McBride
Today, Phil and Jerry McBride dig into what happens after you tie the fly. They’re breaking down how to fish balanced flies effectively, including Jerry’s preferred presentation styles, his leader and line setups, and the thinking behind why this pattern works so well on Stillwaters.
Jerry McBride’s Gear Set up for Balanced Flies
Jerry’s philosophy is to “keep it simple, stupid” or KISS. He doesn’t overcomplicate his Stillwater rig. Everything has a purpose, and nothing is fussy. This setup keeps him focused on fishing. Below are the gear Jerry likes to use:
1. Rod
Jerry McBride likes to use a Cabelas CZN 10 ft, 5 wt rod. but since that’s discontinued. Echo has several that will do the job, and they are reasonably priced. Get a rod 10 ft. in length with a fairly stiff action, and it will be easy to throw good-sized indicators with long leaders and heavy flies.
2. Reel
As far as the reel goes, Jerry says you just need something that can wind up your line.
3. Fly Line
Jerry used a Rio 5 wt. line designed for casting indicators. Their latest version is the RIO Elite Xtreme Indicator Line, which is specifically designed for fishing from a boat with indicators. Combined with a 10’ fairly stiff rod, you can throw pretty much any combination of indicator and fly that you can come up with.
4. Leader
As part of Jerry’s effort to keep things simple, he uses a straight length of fluorocarbon tippet. No tapered leader and no swivel. If the fly line has a loop on the end, he loops on a 12-foot piece of 6 lb. test fluorocarbon tippet material.
If the fly line does not have a loop on the end, he takes an old tapered leader with a loop on the butt end
and cut off about 10 inches. He then attach the cut end to the fly line using a nail knot.
Seaguar Red Label fluorocarbon is a real bargain at about $15 for 200 yards. If you are going to fish small flies you should shorten up the 6 lb tippet by two feet and put a two foot section of 4 lb. test on to tie the flies to.
5. Tippet to Fly Connection
For a long time, Jerry tied most flies, except very small ones, with a fixed loop. The loop allows the fly to move freely in the water, which is attractive to the fish. Below are the instructions for tying the non-slip loop knot. A loop can cause small flies to tilt over, so Jerry ties them on with an improved clinch knot instead.
Here’s a memory trick to help remember how to tie the fixed loop. Every time something is done, the tag end must go back through the overhand knot. To begin, pass the tag end through the eye of the hook. Since something has been done, the tag end must then go through the overhand knot. After making four to six wraps, the tag end needs to be passed back through the overhand knot.
More recently, Jerry has been using a Rio Twist Clip Size 1 to attach balanced flies down to about size 12. The clip allows the fly to move freely, and it makes changing flies easier without having to cut off the old fly and tie a new fixed loop. Jerry still uses the fixed loop for larger chironomids and bloodworms, as he believes the clip can distort the appearance of the fly.
If Jerry is fishing chironomids and balanced flies, he rigs up two rods so he doesn’t have to be changing back and forth with flies.
6. Indicators
There are many options available. Jerry started out with a Corky threaded on the leader, with a toothpick pushed in on the fly side of the indicator so it tightens as you cast. It’s important to be able to easily move the indicator up or down on the leader to set the fly at a specific depth in the water.
There are ways to fish deeper water using an indicator. Jerry fished successfully in depths up to about 25 feet. This involves using releasable indicators and special casting techniques. He fishes this way only as a last resort because it is not simple.
Eventually, Jerry switched to the Thill Ice N Fly IND 1 1/8”. Made of balsa wood, it’s more aerodynamic, making it easier to cast. Unfortunately, Thill no longer makes this indicator. The new Oros indicator is a great option and is available online and at local fly shops. They’ve recently added chartreuse indicators, and Jerry suggests the medium size.
There are ways to fish deeper water using an indicator. Jerry has fished successfully in depths up to about 25 feet. This involves using releasable indicators and special casting techniques. Jerry fishes this way only as a last resort because it is not simple.
7. Flies
With the goal of simplicity, Jerry fishes with only one fly at a time. He says life is too short to deal with the level of frustration that comes with two flies. He fishes with chironomids, Bionic Worms and various balanced flies. There are now quite a few places where you can buy balanced flies.
- New Flies
- New to the scene are blobs, mop flies and leather leaches. Jerry has had good success with all three. The fish have a tendency to swallow regular blobs so he ties them in a balanced form that has eliminated the swallowing problem.
- Jerry’s Favorite Flies
8. Rod Case
Jerry McBride uses a case that allows a 10’ rod to be uncoupled at the mid-point and folded over and inserted in the case with the reel on it and the line still strung up. To put the rod in the case, release the indicator and slide it down to the fly. Reel the indicator and fly up to the tip of the rod. Uncouple at the mid-point, fold over and insert into the case. Simple!
9. Fish Finder
Jerry McBride says a fish finder is invaluable. It will give you the water depth, temperature, what kind of bottom you are over and whether there are any fish below or out in front of you. The earlier Buddy II’s or later Humminbird Series are really the only ones suitable for fly fishing.
You want either the Humminbird 140 or 120 models. Both have bottom and side sensors. The 120 has a much longer battery life. Unfortunately, the Humminbird finders are no longer manufactured so the only source is a used one bought on the internet.
Jerry McBride’s Technique
1. Anchoring
Jerry fishes out of a boat and typically anchor up on both ends. If there are two of them in the boat he anchors sideways to the wind which makes casting much easier. A strong wind may require that you anchor the boat in line with the wind.
If you are in a float tube or pontoon boat you may be able to fish without an anchor by slowing your drift with your fins but he advises putting down an anchor.
2. Water Depth
Jerry fishes depths from 2’ to about 15’. Most commonly, he looks for water that is about 10’ deep.
3. Set depth of fly
A good place to start is with the fly about one foot off the bottom. Jerry uses a sinker attached to an alligator clip to check depth. Clamp the alligator clip onto the fly and lower it to the bottom.
Position the indicator so that it is pulled down about one foot under the surface of the water. When the weight is removed the fly will then be about one foot above the bottom.
If there are weeds on the bottom you will have to adjust the indicator so the fly is above the weeds. If you are using a small fly you may want to put a split shot on the tippet to get the fly down to fishing depth more quickly.
4. Casting
To keep it simple and avoid big tangled messes, Jerry does not false cast like you would if you were casting a dry fly.
Pick the line off of the water and make your back cast. On your forward cast throw an open loop so that the indicator, tippet and fly are kept stretched out. An open loop is accomplished by moving the rod tip in an arc rather than in a straight line.
Watch to see that you get distinct splashes from the indicator and fly and that they are the proper distance apart. If it appears there is something not right strip in and check it out. If you want more distance strip out some more line and then repeat the back and forward casts.
If you try to throw a tight loop and false cast, he says you will spend more time untangling messes than you do fishing. A little short haul on the line on the back and forward cast will increase line speed helping to keep everything stretched out and will give you more distance.
5. Where to cast
If there is a small chop on the water and you are fishing with a Bionic Worm or balanced flies try casting out to the side and letting the wind work the fly. A belly will form in your line but don’t worry about it. In most cases you still will be able to hook fish due to the resistance of the line to being pulled sideways through the water.
If a wind drift doesn’t work throw straight downwind and bring the fly back to you very slowly allowing the chop to work the fly up and down. In most cases it is best to fish a chironomid straight downwind and move it very slowly or not at all.
Jerry tries to cover as much water as possible. If there are two people in the boat you have about 180 degrees available to you. By yourself you can do 360 degrees. The more water you cover the better chance you will catch fish.
6. Retrieve
Put the tip of your rod in the water. This reduces the amount of slack in the line and stiffens up your rod when you strike. If there is a chop on the water let it work the indicator putting movement on the fly and retrieve very slowly. If the water is still then retrieve with short pulls on the line that cause the indicator to dip slightly in the water.
7. Strike
If the indicator hesitates or goes down do a strip/strike. A strip/strike is accomplished by stripping your line and lifting the rod tip at the same time. This puts the most motion on the fly giving you the best chance of hooking the fish.
8. Netting and release of the fish
Jerry is a strong advocate of using a net even if you use a releaser to unhook the fish. A net allows you to capture the fish and get it under control sooner. Leave the fish in the water and use a releaser to take the hook out.
The Inland Empire Fly Fishing Club offers the Runje Releaser through local Spokane, WA fly fishing shops. When you release the fish it isn’t as tired giving it a better chance of surviving.
“This is how I do it. My goal is to keep things as simple as possible and yet be successful in catching fish.” – Jerry McBride.
Here’s a helpful PDF guide from Jerry. It breaks down exactly how he fishes his patterns.
Fishing Strategies & Tactics for Balanced Flies Resources Noted in the Show
Conclusion with Jerry McBride on Fishing Strategies & Tactics for Balanced Flies
Big thanks to Jerry McBride for joining us again and sharing his personal approach to fishing balanced flies. Between this episode and part one, we’ve covered everything from tying tips to the gear and setups Jerry swears by on the water.
If you’ve been curious about adding balanced flies to your Stillwater toolbox, you’ve now got the tools and insights to give them a real shot. Here’s a helpful PDF guide from Jerry McBride. It breaks down exactly how he fishes his patterns.