Phil Rowley breaks down the world of sinking lines—why and when to use them, how to pick the right one, and the tricks that make them effective. From understanding sink rates and densities to choosing leaders and rigging setups, Phil shares practical tactics that can help you fish deeper and smarter on lakes.
Show Notes with Phil Rowley on Sinking Line Tactics for Stillwater Fly Fishing
Why Use Sinking Lines in Lakes
Sinking lines are a key tool for stillwater fishing. Most trout feed below the surface, so getting your fly down and keeping it there makes a big difference. Unlike floating lines, sinking lines pull your fly in a steady, horizontal path just like the way food naturally moves in a lake. They also cut through wind and surface chop, giving you better control and contact with your flies. With the right line, you can cover the whole water column, from just under the surface to 60+ feet down, even when chasing deep-dwelling lake trout.
Different Types of Sinking Lines
Not all sinking lines are the same. They sink at different speeds, and each one has its own use.
- Intermediate & Hover Lines – The slowest sinkers, about 1–2.5 inches per second. Clear intermediates are great for calm, clear days because they don’t cast a big shadow that spooks fish.
- Type Lines (Type 3, 5, 6, 7, etc.) – These sink faster, and the number matches the sink rate in inches per second. A Type 5 sinks around 5 inches per second, and so on. They let you time your fly to the right depth.
- Low Stretch Lines – Built with less stretch so you feel strikes better, set hooks stronger, and even cast farther.
- Sweep (Clean Sweep) Lines – Sink at different rates along the line, creating a U-shaped path through the water. They’re perfect for covering multiple depths in one retrieve.
- Density Compensated Lines – Designed to sink more evenly, giving you straighter contact with your flies and better strike detection.
Having a few of these options in your gear lets you match the depth and conditions, so your fly is always where the trout are feeding.
The Top 3 Sinking Lines You Need
With so many sinking lines out there, it can get overwhelming. Phil keeps it simple by recommending three core lines to start with:
- Clear Intermediate – Perfect for shallow water, clear conditions, and slow retrieves.
- Type 3 (3 inches per second) – A versatile mid-range option for searching different depths.
- Type 7 (7 inches per second) – A fast-sinking line for deep water or when fish are holding low.
These three give you a wide range of coverage, from just below the surface to the depths of a lake. From there, you can add more specialty lines like sweep lines, hovers, or Type 5s as your budget and fishing style allow.
The key is not to think of sinking lines as a race to the bottom. Choose a line that matches the prey you’re imitating and the speed of your retrieve. Trout food moves slowly and erratically, not like rockets. Pay attention to three things: Depth, Retrieve, and Pattern (DRP)—with depth being the most important. Get your fly to the right zone and keep it there, and you’ll be in business.
The Countdown Method
Once you’ve picked the right sinking line, the next step is learning how to control depth. Phil shares two simple ways to do this:
- The Five Count – Use this when you don’t know the depth. Cast out, let the line sink for 5 seconds, then retrieve. Next cast, try 10 seconds, then 15, and so on. If you hook a fish, remember the count. If you snag bottom, you know how deep it is.
- The Rule of 12 – Use this when you know the depth. Take 12 and divide it by your line’s sink rate (in inches per second). That gives you the seconds it takes to sink 1 foot. Multiply by the depth you want. Example: A Type 3 sinks 3 inches per second. 12 ÷ 3 = 4, so it takes 4 seconds per foot. To reach 10 feet, count down about 40 seconds.
Both methods let you fish with more precision instead of just “chucking and hoping.” Once you find the depth where trout are feeding, you can repeat it again and again.
Retrieves, Hook Sets, and the Power of the Hang
Fishing sinking lines isn’t about fancy retrieves; it’s about being methodical. Phil starts every retrieve with two quick strips. This clears slack and can also trigger a fish to strike as the flies dart into view. From there, vary your retrieves: strip retrieves, hand twists, or even the roly-poly (tucking the rod under your arm and pulling line hand-over-hand). Match your speed to the conditions—fast if fish are active, slow and erratic if things are quiet.
A few key tips:
- Keep your rod tip in the water to stay connected with your flies.
- Fan cast to cover water instead of just casting straight out.
- Work structure like drop-offs and points by casting parallel to them.
- Strip set, don’t trout set—pull the line tight with your hand instead of lifting the rod.
Finally, don’t forget the hang. At the end of your retrieve, lift the rod slowly and let the flies pause just under the surface. Many trout follow a fly but won’t commit until it suddenly rises. This change in direction often triggers them to strike. Using lines with hang markers makes it easier to know when you’re near the end of your retrieve and helps you repeat the presentation. The hang alone can boost your catch rate in stillwaters by 20–30%.
Advanced Stillwater Tactics: Washing Line, Dangling, and Lock Style
Sinking lines open the door to some deadly stillwater techniques. One of the most effective is the washing line. Here, you tie on a buoyant fly on the point, which helps suspend lighter flies tied on droppers. The setup looks like clothes hanging on a line, keeping your flies at a steady depth and above weeds or rocks where trout cruise. It’s a simple but powerful way to control depth horizontally almost like using an indicator, but without the bobber.
For going really deep, Phil uses a method he calls dangling. With a short leader and a fast sinking line, you let the fly drop straight down so it hangs just off the bottom. The takes are savage—sometimes so strong they can yank a rod from your hands if you’re not holding on. It’s especially effective for trout in 20–30 feet of water, but also works great for other species like walleye.
Finally, there’s lock style, a boat control method that started in Europe. By using a drogue (an underwater parachute), you can drift sideways with the wind. This keeps your flies ahead of the boat, presenting them naturally to fish moving upwind. It’s perfect for covering shoals, drop-offs, or big open water when anchoring isn’t practical.
Adding these techniques to your toolkit—washing line for control, dangling for depth, and lock style for coverage—gives you more ways to find and hook fish in stillwaters.
You can find Phil Rowley on Instagram @philrowleyflyfishing.
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